Replacing the Door Between Your Garage and House: A Fire-Rated Door Checklist

The door between an attached garage and your home works hard. It's the entry you probably use most, and it's also a safety barrier. Garages hold cars, fuel, paint and lawn equipment, so building codes treat that wall and door differently from any other interior door. If yours is dented, sticking, drafty or just looks tired, this checklist will help you choose a replacement that looks good and does its job.

Why the Garage Door Is Different

Most U.S. residential codes are based on the International Residential Code (IRC). The IRC calls for doors between an attached garage and the house to be solid wood or solid/honeycomb-core steel at least 1-3/8 in. thick, or a 20-minute fire-rated door. Recent editions also call for a self-closing or automatic-closing device. Local amendments vary, so check with your city or builder before you buy.

A rated door is the simplest way to check the box. It's tested and labeled as a 20-minute (or higher) assembly.

The Checklist

1. Confirm the rating and the label

Look for a fire rating label on the door. Inspectors check for it, and painting over or removing it can cause problems at inspection or resale. Our 32 x 80 in. 1-Panel 20 Min. Fire-Rated Prehung Door lists "fire rating label included."

2. Pick the right rating for your situation

Twenty minutes is the common residential requirement. Some situations call for more. Our 3/0x6/8 1-Panel 90 Min. Fire-Rated Door has a steel-edge, polyurethane-core design. Its listing notes that the 90-minute rating applies when it's used with a 90-minute fire-rated frame. A rating covers the whole assembly, not just the slab.

3. Measure the opening, not just the old door

Garage entry doors come in a few common sizes. Note that some are 79 in. tall instead of 80 in.:

Measure the rough opening width and height and the wall thickness. These units list a 4-9/16 in. jamb, which is sized for a standard 2x4 wall. If your wall is thicker (for example, it has extra layers of fire-rated drywall), plan for a jamb extension. The 90-minute model also offers a 6-9/16 in. jamb. Our measuring guide covers the basics.

4. Check the swing direction

This is the one people miss. Some of our fire-rated units are built to swing into the house, and others (like the steel-edge 3/0x6/8 models) are built to swing into the garage. Match your existing setup, or think about what works better around steps, cars and storage. Then choose left- or right-hand. If you're unsure, read How to Determine Door Swing.

5. Plan for a self-closer if your code requires one

Many jurisdictions now require the garage door to close and latch on its own. The units above list standard ball-bearing hinges, so if your code requires a closer, plan to add spring hinges or a closer that's approved for a fire-rated door. Ask our team if you're unsure which applies.

6. Don't forget weather sealing

Garages get hot, cold and dusty. Look for compressed weatherstripping and an adjustable threshold. Several of our units list an adjustable aluminum threshold and an insulated core. The 36 x 79 in. models list a U-factor of 0.14.

7. Choose a style that matches the rest of the house

Fire-rated doesn't have to mean plain. Our primed doors come in 1-panel and 2-panel Shaker styles that match Shaker interior doors and even Shaker cabinets. There's also a traditional 6-panel. They arrive primed white, ready for paint. Avoid painting over the rating label.

8. Pick hardware for an entry door

The garage door is a real entry point, so treat it like one: a keyed knob or lever plus a deadbolt. Our fire-rated units list a single or double bore for hardware, so check each listing. Browse door hardware to match finishes with the hinges you choose.

9. Don't modify the door

Cutting in a pet door or glass, or trimming the slab heavily, can void a fire rating. If you need a different size, order the right unit instead of cutting one down.

10. Allow for lead time

Some models are assembled to order. Our steel-edge units list a lead time of about 7 days, so plan your project around it.

Installation Notes

A prehung fire-rated door installs much like any prehung door: plumb, level and square, shimmed at the hinges and strike, with the gap around the frame sealed. Fire-rated assemblies have their own installation instructions, so follow the ones included with the door. Our Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing a Door is a good read before you start.

Shop all fire-rated doors, or contact us with your opening size and swing and we'll point you to the right unit.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the door from my garage into my house have to be fire-rated?

Codes based on the IRC accept either a 20-minute fire-rated door or a solid wood or steel door at least 1-3/8 in. thick, and many now also require a self-closing device. Your local building department has the final word.

What does "20-minute fire-rated" mean?

It means the door assembly has been tested to resist fire for 20 minutes under standard test conditions. That buys time for your family to get out and helps slow a garage fire from spreading into the house.

Is a 79 in. tall fire door a standard size?

Yes. 79 in. is a common height for garage entry doors, and several of ours are 79 in. tall. Measure your opening and pick the height that matches.

Can I paint a fire-rated door?

Yes. Our units arrive primed for paint. Just don't paint over the fire rating label, and use a standard interior/exterior paint suited to the location.

Should a garage door swing into the house or the garage?

Either can be correct. Many codes allow both, but steps, landings and parked cars usually decide it. Check each listing, because our fire-rated units are built for a specific swing direction.